Red Adventures: April 2010

Saturday, April 24th-Friday, April 30th

Our first time in seven days not to have a destination, we unpacked the bikes and went “up the hill” to Chaumont city center. We needed to find the GARE train station to check the schedules for Charles de Gaulle airport. Ken had a scheduled flight on Sunday at 1:50pm. Schedules were slim and did not give us much hope of getting him there in time so we went to the tourism office to check bus and car rental. Found Eurocar and at 4pm, when they “re-opened” for the day, secured a car. I would drive Ken to Paris in the morning and then when I returned would have a car until the next day for errands.

Thank goodness for Eurocar! Got Ken to the airport and allowed me some errand freedom.

L'Hotel de Ville, built in the late 1700's on a triangular pediment. Now used as the Chaumont Townhall.

Le Donjon - Built on a natural summit of 45 meters over the Suize Valley, it was constructed between the 11th and 12th century. It is the only remains of the Castle of Earls of Champagne. Until 1866 it was a jail, now it's one of the sights of the city, and used for cultural events.

Le Basilique Saint-Jean Baptiste in Chaumont.

One of the many cemeteries in Chaumont.

Le Viaduc of Chamount, France

50 arches on a height of 53m's makes it one of the most remarkable works d' art of the medium of the 19th century in Europe, if not in the world. conceived by architect Emile Decomble, It was builds to allow the railroad to reach the high part of the city, the building site is in record time led, 15 month were enough to implement 60,000 m' of masonry, thanks to 2500 workmen and 300 horses which worked night and day. The startup of the viaduct was an economic engine for the chief town. Partially destroyed on August 31, 1944, opening at once reconstructed to restore railway circulation. Its imposing majesty makes the emblematic figure of the city of it. It was used as framework has several films."

My feeble attempt to translate the tribute to the Viaduc.

Refueling the boat has always been a issue and something that those on the canals have to plan for. We knew this from all the literature we read about the canals and had a small portable tank that we could carry into towns for refueling. Slow process that sometimes required several trips. With the rental car, this made it much easier. Of course, my first time at the pumps, I could not figure which pump was diesel or gas, then my US credit cards would not work in the machine. Other option, back out of the stall, forcing all the other cars waiting to back out also. I finally found the “cash” stall and got things going. After 5 trips, I had the boat diesel gauge on “FULL”, and had become quite friendly with the station attendant. I packed my bike into the rental car on Monday at 4pm and returned the car. The ride home on the bike was all downhill!

The entire week was full of sun and light winds. I rode my bike to the store, down the canal paths, and generally enjoyed the quiet of the Nautique. I have taken tons of pictures and have discovered Chaumont to be one beautiful city on top of a hill!

Friday, I secured another car to make a return trip to pickup Ken at Charles de Gaulle Saturday morning. Wendell and Shelly Meise will be there also so it will be a car full.
We will plan to restart our canal journey on Sunday as Saturday, May 1st is a National Holiday and EVERYTHING is closed! (except the airport)

And, surprise! I am now caught up with this blog. I am hoping that I can continue without too many "pauses" in our journals, especially with having company for the next 7 days on the canals!

Friday, April 23rd

Departed as we promised at 8:30, arriving at the first lock at 9am. Lock keeper was there as promised and we had a fun time speaking each others language for the next few locks. If we understood him correctly, he was actually Dutch and would mix Dutch with French and English. Made it interesting.

Today would be a short day compared to others. 35 km and 12 locks, assorted lift bridges, and one short tunnel (Conde). That would be about 6 hours travel time depending how fast or slow the locks would be. It was a beautiful day and as the morning progressed, we continued to take “layers” off. It is very hot in the locks where it is protected from the wind. We only had to wait once for a boat coming out of the lock from the opposite direction. But then the lock was “ready” for us to go in and we liked that.
I had to take extra pictures today. The canals were lined with trees and had that early Spring “green haze” from the budding leaves. Many of the old lock houses adjacent to the locks were well maintained and full of flowers and decorative scrubs. The old lock houses have been leased or sold to private owners and they have to put up with the canal traffic right at their front door.

The canals were just beautiful today!

Arrived in Chaumont around 2:30 and tied up to what we felt was the best spot. (I later have come to hate the trees we are by. They are messy and I have to sweep the deck several times a day.) The Captianerier’s office hours are 9-12noon, and 4-8pm daily, so we waited for them to open. Got our water and electric and paid for 9 days. I think under 50 Euros for the total.

We detected wireless and found it was at the restaurant/hotel across the street so Ken went to discuss our getting the pass code. When he came back he had the pass code from the owner/chef and wasn’t sure why he gave it to him as it was for Hotel “guests” only.
So, we have internet, weak, but getting the job done.

Thursday, April 22nd

Beautiful and narrow approaching our first lock on Thursday. Second picture is of us in the canal crossing over a river and heading toward the open lift-bridge.

Thursday, we left Joinville at 10am and planned to do 23 km with only 9 locks. Evening destination was Froncle, France. We found the canals becoming narrower and more remote and certainly had less “commercial” traffic. Hate when we would have to “squeeze” to the side of the canal to make room for the barges. You can see the mud kicked up when they would pass. Most of the barges carry some sort of “load”, just like the Semi-truckers. The difference with these barges, is the owner usually also lives on the barge. Many times we would see potted plants, laundry hanging out, and the family car on the barge.

Today about mid-way, we were instructed at one lock to deposit our “remote” that activated the locks into a deposit box. From this point on we had our personal Lockkeeper follow us for a series of locks in a row. Usually 4-5 and they stay on those same locks. These locks became less automated and required hand cranking by the lock keeper. He would have the 2 doors to crank close after we entered the locks, and then 2 doors to crank open when the water filled/or emptied depending on our direction.

We arrived in Froncle around 3pm and at our last lock the keeper said if the Nautique was full to tie up at the VNF dock. Of course, he knew we would find the Nautique full and so we turned around and went back to the VNF dock. Really just a short walk to the Nautique which we found closed with exception to the bathrooms. (but no TP)

Later in the afternoon, VNF associate stopped by the boat to see what time we planned our morning departure. This is important so they can “schedule” to have a lock keeper available when you reach your first lock. And so the journey continues through the locks. Ken went for a walk to see what might be open and came back saying he had made reservations at Au Chateau. When you first see the restaurant, it looked like someone’s private house. After closer inspection, you see an invitation to dine on a small sign at the entrance of the property. It proved to be a personal home where the owner ran the restaurant. Please check out their website. We had a wonderful, quiet meal as we were the only guests. It reminded me of Quiveys Grove House only older and more grand. http://www.restaurant.auchchateau.monsite.wanadoo.fr/

Translation from their website: Veronique and Didier Pougeoise accomodate you in the house of the Master of the Forging mills, built in 1802. Between the Marne and slopes let you surprise by the instinctive kitchen and of season of the Chief Restaurant " In Château"

Wednesday, April 21st

Wednesday, Prior to arriving Joinville, France, we experienced our first “remote” lift bridge, and later in the day locks and lift bridges that had to be manually cranked by the lock keeper. They follow you along the canal in a series of 4-5 locks to do this. I am sure someday, this leg of the canal will be modernized as the earlier ones we encountered. The video is of the lock keeper lowering the lift bridge after we went through.

Lots of pictures today as the countryside and weather were spectatular.

Below is a video of our lock keeper lowering this lift bridge. If you look close at the above picture you will also see we are in a lock. So, first the lock keeper has to manually crank the lock to fill, let us out and then manually crank the lift bridge up. We thought this would be a good job for any of our "visitors" we would have on the canal trip!

We arrived in Joinville where the books boasted of a great Halt Nautique. It was quaint but full of small RV’s and satellite dishes. All of the electrical outlets were taken by these RV’s which for us was not an issue. Motoring all day our batteries are full charged when we stop for the night. A group of British tourists there on some Bike journey across Europe gave us the run-down of the town. Ken and I walked across the bridge to the city center (always a big old church) and found some wine café. In our exploration we found a wonderful speciality shop, and along with our wine for the night we purchased some spectacular gourmet mustard and chocolates. Of course, the chocolates were for Ken! The next shop we found back to the boat was a fresh produce shop.. Dinner proved to be wonderful this night. Love the local breads, fresh veggies and Spring air!