Steve & Vicki, continued



Kasiopi' small harbor


Sunday afternoon, we got the last big bags of ice from the Supermarket. They normally split up their bags and sell in small quanity, but saved us one big bag for our journey. We left around 4pm to sail to the South East Port of Corfu city and arrived around 7pm.

Corfu City.

Harbor master greeted us, took our 40 Euro’s and gave us the basic information of internet café locations and restaurants. This is a huge Metro city for an Island and seems to be a destination stop for many Italian tourists. By evening, it was packed with tourists and very loud from all the disco/café’s. In the morning, Ken, Charlie and I went off for coffee and to look for a newspaper. Newspaper stand that sold the International Herald Tribune would not open until 11am and we would be gone by then, so no paper today.

Paxio Island Marina


Ken's lunch on Paxio

We left Corfu City around 10AM and with no wind, motored to Paxoi Island, one of the small Ionian Islands South of Corfu. Monday night stay would at Paxi Club Hotel on Gioes, Paxoi . It was time for a break, a swimming pool, airconditioning and good internet. Charlie stayed on the boat and made friends with some of the younger crowd that were at the harbor on charter boats. One group had over 100 teenagers in a summer camp program, along with their chaperones, had chartered several boats and were all along the quay. It was a fun, loud time and they enjoyed working their English on us.




Dancin' Dolphins

Tuesday, we had to leave around 6pm, so it ended up being a great break for us. Before we left, Ken found a internet café with strong signal near the boat. We did some tourist shopping and also found ice for sale. We will leave for another 3 day/2 night sail across the Ionian Sea to Siracuse, Sicily.

Our overnights required 4 hours shifts from all of us. One hour watch, 2 hour driving, and one hour watch, then 6 hours off (or so). It worked well as to our delight our autopilot was working again so driving was not so taxing. We ended up motoring both nights due to lack of wind, but got some sailing in during the day. Steve started to make a list of the different floating garbage we saw in the Sea. He claims to see floating cheese, but we think he just needed to eat…We did see one floating white flipflop along the way, water bottles, we think a pillow and various other things unrecognizable. On Wednesday evening before dark we were entertained by a small pod of dolphins that stayed with us about 30 minutes. The would leap out of the water backwards to show their bellys. It was very amusing and we desperately tried to get the best picture of them leaping out of the water.

A little "wing-on-wing

Siracuse Harbor after dark.

After dark, and after the moon dropped below the horizon, the stars were at their peak. Not a cloud in the sky and the Milky way was brilliant. You cannot describe how awesome the sky can be when there is no other light to diminish the intensity of the stars alone.

On Thursday morning, we arrived under sail to Siracuse Sicily. There were two harbor marinas one on the inside of the bay and the other outside behind a great jetty. We first went to the inside harbor, but did not get the feeling it was where the Regatta would be held, so we went to the outside. We found a nice berth and in the end, it was truly the best berth to be at. We had a straight shot to the outside and were next to other boats preparing for the Siracuse to Malta Regatta. We would have 2 full days to enjoy Siracuse and prepare for the race. We refueled by hauling the jerrycans to the petro station a few blocks away utilizing a abandoned grocery cart. Ken and Charlie did some boat repair and measurements with Charlie up the mast and all of us worked on cleaning the boat and turning it into a racing boat once again.

At the yacht club for the regatta meeting

What do you think they are Talking about?...

Friday, we registered the boat for the regatta at the Yacht Club where the Race director gave us a personal English translation of the Racing instructions. It was all in Italian and he gave us the highlights. At the time of the evening Skippers meeting, they found there were more English speaking sailors from Malta and beyond and provide a translator to recap at the meeting. It all worked out quite well although the prediction for the next days race was extremely light winds. We then were fed appetizers and champagne and wine.


Goodbye Charlie....we will miss you!
Tomorrow, we would leave for the race without Charlie. His flight back home was scheduled for Sunday morning and there was a good chance we would not get to Malta until afternoon, Sunday. We arranged a flight for Charlie from Siracuse to Malta where he would meet his connecting flight home. As it turned out, his flight to Malta was cancelled due to Mt. Etna and a bit of ash cloud. His parents helped him arrange another flight later to get in Sunday night with a Monday morning departure home. We could have used him on the sail, but you never know how things might be. Charlie was a great crew and we would sail with him anytime. He was so helpful and wonderful with all our visitors this Summer. (and he put up with us!) Thank you Charlie!!!

Waiting for the start. Another "drifter"...





Waiting for the wind











Kristines turn at the helm.








Saturday, the start of the race was scheduled for 9:55 and we would start with the first class. We actually were in 2 classes due to our different ratings. We had two class flags, one for ORC and one for IRC racers. They all started first so it worked for us. Originally, we tried to get into the cruising class but we have so many high-tech gismo’s on the boat, we did not qualify. Instead we rated the slowest of the racers which would be ok. We would have been rated one of the fastest cruisers if we made it in that class.

The race was delayed about 30 minutes and finally we got our start. It would be about 80 nautical miles to Malta and could, with light wind, take up to 2 days. As it turned out we had great sailing upwind and averaged 6-7kts most of the way. We each took turns driving because this would still be a 18 hour race for us. It was fun to be in the boats and to have winds so easy to sail. We made some great moves and had some interesting “racing” moments where we would pick a boat target and see how long it took to pass them. In the end, we arrived in Malta around 2:30AM, the finish was inside the harbor and once you got inside the wind stopped. It took us almost 30 minutes to get to the finish line only about a quarter mile away from entrance. We heard of other boats that took 2+ hours getting across the finish with the harbors lack of wind. In our 2 classes, we finished 12 out of 12 and 24th out of 29th. We did not fly the spinnaker due to conditions, but some did and finished close to our finish time. If we did fly the spinnaker it would have been the last 20 miles and would not have changed our standing. We were happy with our finish time altogether.





























Closing Ceremonies at the Royal Malta Yacht Club




















View of Valetta, Malta








After the finish, we were directed to the Grand Harbor Marina, a new facility in another “creek” of the harbor bay. We finally tied up around 4AM and hit the sheets! We will stay in Malta until Saturday when we launch with the next crew.

Sunday was blazing hot and when we finally got up, we split up and did some exploration. Malta is wonderfully clean and it seems they have worked hard to preserve the history of the island. Everyone is very friendly and this marina is top notch. I will say, that the bathrooms and showers at the marina are nicer than most hotel bathrooms I have seen. But, the Queen has been here so I am sure that set the standard!

Vicki and Steve left Monday around 9AM to get their flight home while Ken and I did some internet work. We have had several shipyard workers come by to offer their expertise. We have asked to have the windlass repaired, the steering rods installed from our previous breakdown, and maybe have some teak work done.

Moonscape terrain of Croatia's Coast









Off the boat to Prague for the weekend


Prague – Had a wonderful time helping Maggie Touma celebrate her Birthday. Big party at a beautiful Chateau in Prague. Morning breakfast with Alistar, his wife Ellie and several other friends that were at the party. Monday night we arrived back to Zagreb, stayed overnight and then drove in the morning to return our rental car and taxi back to Cres.



The Girls! Kristine, Pip, Nancy and Barb


Troja Chateau - Rockin'



Alistar and Ken



Kristine and Ken

Pre-Race Week in Cres




Friday, John and I drove to Zagreb to pick up Ken at the airport. Shelly and Wendell will arrive later and I will pick them up at the Merag Ferry in the evening. Saturday, we will get our 2 apartments in town for race week and the remaining crew of Leneke, Clarissa, and Jerone will arrive later in the day. They too have rented an apartment in the old town of Cres, very close to ours.

Sunday, the day was spent continuing preparation on the boat for the race. Sail changes, lines set, anchor off, etc. Sunday night was the regattas opening event in the town square. It was lively with music, light shows and fireworks. John had discovered the one in-town winery where you can get your jug filled with their local wine so we had many a glass to kickoff the week.

Corfu Greece to Italy, Steve and Vicki




We Found plenty of place at the small harbor for us, but our first attempt at anchor mooring. This is where you drop anchor and then back into the quay to tie up. Usually, we would find laid-lines from the Quay that we would tie our bow to their permanent underwater anchors. This first attempt went extremely well considering at this time our windlass decided not to work and the “boys” had to manually drop the anchor.




We found Steve waiting for us on the dock and Vicki in the closet café guarding their luggage. We decided to stay at Kosiopi, Corfu until Monday with both crew. As it turned out, Brian, Beth and Kat decided to taxi to a hotel near the airport for their Sunday departure. Steve, Vicki, Charlie, Ken and I stayed on the boat and spent some time discovering the town of Kasiopi. Found great internet in a covered outdoor café that also had good food. We spent several hours there using the internet and getting tips for fuel, food, and ice from the local patrons. Our fuel would be delivered by truck and I had to ride with the driver back to the station in order to use our Visa card. We purchased a larger jerrycan for extra fuel on the boat and the kind man carried this full can back to the boat for me. While we were here, we had two great rains that did a great job of cleaning our dirty deck. It is impossible to keep it clean with the dirty mooring lines we bring on the boat.

The Donley's - June27th-July 2nd Cres to Greece




Charlie, Ken, Beth, Brian, Kristine & Kat



Our next guests, Brian, Beth and Kat arrived Monday morning to the boat and with Charlie’s help started to shop for provisions for our next adventure. We will sail down the Croatian coast stopping at different spots than before. You would have to sail for many months to hit all the wonderful places along Croatia.

Tuesday, after arriving back to the boat, we paid our marina bill, got the last bags of ice, along with a treasure of 2 large bottles of Bicardi, and left allowing time to sail or motor to Orso where we would catch the 5pm swingbridge.




v
This route allows us some different places to stay on the inside of islands. We arrived with plenty of time in Orso to allow for some lunch and time for some people watching. Along the swingbridge were boats of all types, camper trailors filled with families on vacation, and people swimming in the canal. We ended up getting a great spot to tieup as we waited for the bridge to open. After the traffic from the South came through the bridge, we were given the signal to come through.









We arrived at Otok Ilovik around 7:30, finding the last spot in the harbor to tieup to a concrete pontoon. Otok Ilovik is a small island south of Otok Losinj and was very charming. No ice or internet of course. We at dinner at the first quayside restaurant and had excellent Risotto and fish.









Wednesday, we left harbor at 4:45 and sailed along Kornati Islands, where we found a large area of National Parks along the Islands. Our plan was to anchor off at O. Levrnaka and have some lunch. When we got settled, the Rangers approached us in their dingy and charged us the customary entrance fee of 40 Euro’s. Heading to Greece, we had used most of our Euro’s and had some time scraping up loose change and what Euro’s we had left. This was followed by some swimming to shore and a nice lunch on the boat.















Our overnight stay would be O.Smokvica. Thursday, we started our 3 day, 2 night sail. We were able to sail most of the day and night. During the day we did one stop at Otok Vis for provisions, lunch and fuel. In the morning, Hople-pople for breakfast and pasta for dinner.



We lost wind and ended up motoring all through Friday night. During the night, on Beth and my shift, we saw dolphins for about 30 minutes swimming along the boat. They would turn on their sides and their under side would glow with the lights of our starboard green nav light. It made our shift go much faster with this entertainment. No moon so it was dark and clouds only allowed a few stars to shine for us.


The evening shifts went well and I think everyone had a chance to get some decent sleep when they were off shift. Saturday, I woke to see the Albanian coastline. It was huge and lovely in the morning sun. We will arrive in Corfu Greece around 1-2pm. We made contact with our next crew, Vicki and Steve who are waiting for us on Kasiopi City on Corfu.

Ready for Race week, June 18-25th

Our Race Crew

RACE WEEK
Monday, the boats left the harbor around 9:30 with an anticipated first start at 11AM. The wind forecast was for light winds for the next several days. Not good for a World Championship Regatta. I had checked the post at the Race office and most of the day just saw only results for Class A boats, race one. It appeared that no other classes got a start for the entire day due to diminishing winds and this would be a big disappointment to many boats.

When the boats returned there were many stories and complaints as to how the Committee boat handled the course changes and the delayed starts or recalls. In the end, only the Class A boats had a race results. No second races were even close to happening.


In the evening, we arranged a taxi to take us 5 km’s to the Bucaletta restaurant for the speciality of the Island, Roast Lamb. We had all looked forward to the dinner, with exception to Jerone (a Vegetarian), and did not leave hungry.



Tuesday, June 21st, the boats were ready to leave for their one Off-Shore, overnight race. Again light wind forecasts for the week so things looked bleak. From reports, all boats started and were on their way with the light winds. Around 3:30, I got a call from Ken informing me they were coming in back to the marina and would be there in 15 minutes. Their steering was out and they were using their manual tiller to guide the boat back. I jumped into the car and raced over to the marina to meet them. John walked to Shelly’s Apartment to let her know about the boat and they walked over to the marina.


Apparently, after about 2 hours, and after 2-360degree turns, they realized the boat was not responding to their steering. They thought the turns were due to the lack of wind, but soon realized it was much more serious than that. The manual tiller works well, but is awkward to use.

The rest of the day, the Grateful Red being the only boat on the pontoon, the crew worked on repairing the steering rod under the pedestal. The shipyard lent some assistance is some metal work, and after the repairs were complete, the crew took the boat out for a test. I returned to the apartment to fix a pasta dinner for the crew. Aside from the disappointment of not being able to race again, and the fact that it was blazing hot all day, the crew would need a good shower and a easy meal. It was a great evening with everyone at our apartment, eating outside and enjoying the cool evening.



Wednesday morning I took John to the bus station where he would travel to Zagreb and fly to Prague. Ken and I will meet up with him on Saturday for Maggie Touma’s Birthday celebration. The rest of the morning was slow and relaxing.


Charlie "deck-dancing"



Blender action on Thursday




A "local" friend at our apartment



Our Wednesday "fun-sail"


The rest of the crew will meet at 1pm at the boat to see if there is wind to take the boat out for a afternoon sail. Just for fun! We sailed across to Rabac (one of the few harbors directly across from Cres Island), we stopped there for cold drinks and icecream and then went on our way. It seemed to be a busy tourist town on the mainland and our big red boat was larger than life on the Quay. It is fun to watch from a distance as people would stop and stare at the boat. When we returned to the Cres Harbor, we watched the last of the Class B boats cross the finish. It was a long overnight race with light winds and in many ways we were glad not to compete. We gave the boat a salute and applaude for their efforts.


Boats returning to the Harbor


Thursday, again light winds and no start which would mean no finish for Class B racers. The boats stayed out until there was no chance of getting a race in for the day. Friday, finally some good wind and the boats all had good starts. Grateful Red could only race the first race as we had to then spend the remainder of the day turning the boat from racer to cruiser due to everyones having to leave early Saturday. Ken and I would drive to Zagreb Friday night so we could make our Saturday morning flight to Prague.

Leneke guarding the sails on Friday during our cleanup of the boat